Few shrubs keep flowering as long as Hebe 'Midsummer Beauty'. From July its arching branches carry long spikes of lilac flowers that slowly fade to white, so each plant shows two tones at once, and the show often runs well into October. Bees work it from morning to dusk.
This guide covers where to put it, how to plant it, the light pruning it likes, what to do in a hard winter and how to root your own cuttings. You will also find planting partners and answers to the questions people ask most about this classic hebe.
Hebe 'Midsummer Beauty' at a glance
- Botanical name Veronica 'Midsummer Beauty', still widely sold as Hebe 'Midsummer Beauty'
- Common name Shrubby veronica, hebe
- Plant type Evergreen flowering shrub
- Hardiness RHS H4 (down to about -10°C)
- Height and spread 1.5 to 2.5m tall and 1 to 1.5m wide after 5 to 10 years
- Flowering Long lilac-mauve spikes that fade to white, from midsummer into autumn
- Foliage Narrow, glossy green leaves, tinted purple when young, on purplish stems
- Position Full sun or partial shade, copes with exposed and coastal sites
- Soil Moist but well-drained chalk, clay, loam or sand, neutral to alkaline
- Good for Bees and butterflies, informal hedges, seaside gardens, mixed borders
What makes Midsummer Beauty special
This is one of the larger hebes, an old hybrid that grows into a rounded shrub up to 2.5m tall in a sheltered spot, though most garden plants settle at around 1.5m. The leaves are long and narrow, with a purple flush on new growth and stems that stay purplish all year.
The flower spikes can reach 10 to 15cm long and appear in flushes from midsummer onwards. The RHS lists it as a recommended plant for pollinators, and it is a reliable late source of nectar when many summer perennials have finished.
Finding the right spot
Give it full sun for the most flowers, although it will still bloom in light shade. It handles wind and salt spray well, which is why you see it in so many seaside towns, and it makes a good screen on exposed corners of the garden.
With an RHS H4 rating it is hardy through most of the UK, but it dislikes sitting in cold, wet soil in winter. In colder inland or frost-pocket gardens, plant it against a south or west-facing wall or fence where it gets a little extra warmth.
Planting in soil that drains
Spring is the best time to plant, as the roots can establish before the next winter. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and the same depth, loosen the base, and set the plant so the top of the rootball sits level with the soil.
On heavy clay, fork in grit and some garden compost across a wide area rather than just in the hole, or the planting hole can fill with water like a sump. On chalk and sandy soils it grows happily with little preparation. Space plants about 1m apart for an informal flowering hedge.
Watering and feeding
Water well after planting and through dry spells in the first summer. Once settled, it copes with ordinary dry periods, which suits gardens on Lincolnshire's drier eastern side. In a long drought, a deep soak every week or two keeps the flowers coming.
Hebes need very little feeding. A handful of general fertiliser or a mulch of compost in spring is plenty. Too much nitrogen gives soft, floppy growth that is more likely to be damaged by frost and wind.
Deadheading and pruning
Regular tidying keeps the shrub compact and encourages more flower spikes. Hebes do not always regrow from old bare wood, so little and often is the safest approach.
- Snip off faded flower spikes through summer and autumn to keep new buds forming.
- In mid to late spring, once frosts have passed, trim lightly to shape and remove any frost-damaged tips.
- Cut out dead or weak stems at the base at the same time.
- Avoid cutting back hard into old leafless wood, as older plants may not reshoot.
- Replace very leggy plants after 8 to 10 years rather than trying to rescue them.
Getting through a hard winter
Most winters cause no trouble, but a run of nights below -10°C can scorch leaves or kill stems back. Do not prune damaged growth straight away. Wait until late spring, when you can see where new shoots are breaking, then cut back to healthy buds.
Young plants benefit from a layer of horticultural fleece during severe cold snaps. Good drainage matters more than shelter, as waterlogged roots in a cold spell are the most common cause of losses.
Rooting your own cuttings
Midsummer Beauty roots readily, so it is worth keeping a couple of young plants in reserve. In late summer take 8 to 10cm cuttings from non-flowering shoots, strip the lower leaves and push them into a pot of gritty compost.
Keep the pot in a cold frame or a bright, sheltered spot out of direct sun. Roots usually form within six to eight weeks, and you can pot them on the following spring.
Planting partners and design ideas
The soft lilac flowers sit well with silver foliage. Try it with lavender, Russian sage, santolina and grasses such as Stipa tenuissima for a long-flowering, low-water border. Low sedums and sempervivums can fill the sunny gaps at the front.
It also makes a fine informal hedge or windbreak by the coast, and a single plant in a large pot looks good by a seat or summerhouse. For more ideas on pairing it with other tough plants, see our guide to the best drought-tolerant plants for UK gardens.
Problems to watch for
Leaf spot and downy mildew can mark the leaves in damp, crowded conditions, so allow air to move around the plant. Root rot is the main killer on wet soil. Aphids sometimes cluster on soft shoot tips in spring but rarely do lasting harm, and hebes are not known to be toxic to pets.
Questions about Hebe 'Midsummer Beauty'
How big does Hebe Midsummer Beauty get?
The RHS gives an ultimate height of 1.5 to 2.5m and a spread of 1 to 1.5m, reached in 5 to 10 years. In most gardens it stays nearer 1.5m, and light pruning each spring keeps it smaller.
When does Hebe Midsummer Beauty flower?
It usually starts in July and carries on into autumn, often until October in a mild year. Deadheading the first spikes helps it produce more.
Can I grow Hebe Midsummer Beauty in a pot?
Yes, in a container of at least 40 to 50cm across filled with loam-based compost mixed with grit. Water regularly in summer and move the pot against a sheltered wall in a severe winter, as roots in pots are more exposed to frost.
Why is my hebe going brown?
Brown leaves on Midsummer Beauty are most often caused by frost scorch, cold drying winds or waterlogged roots. Wait until late spring to cut back damaged stems, and improve drainage if the soil stays wet.
If you would like a long-flowering evergreen that bees adore and that shrugs off coastal wind, Hebe 'Midsummer Beauty' is hard to beat. Browse our shrubs collection to find it alongside other tough plants grown on our Lincolnshire farm.