Hebes come in more shapes than most people expect. There are silver hummocks no taller than a trowel, tight green buns that look clipped without ever seeing shears, and loose flowering bushes as tall as a person. Nearly all of them come from New Zealand, and botanists now place them in the genus Veronica, although garden centres still call them hebes.
Picking the right one for your garden matters more than any aftercare, because hardiness and size vary so widely. This guide explains how to tell the main groups apart, which suit cold or windy sites, how to plant and trim them, and what usually goes wrong.
Hebe (shrubby veronica) at a glance
- Botanical name Veronica, the shrubby New Zealand species formerly classed as Hebe
- Common name Hebe, shrubby veronica
- Plant type Evergreen shrubs, from 20cm hummocks to 2m bushes
- Hardiness Varies by type, from RHS H3 (about -5°C) for some large-leaved hybrids to H5 (about -15°C) for tough small-leaved kinds
- Height and spread From 20 to 30cm for dwarf types up to around 2m for the largest hybrids
- Flowering Spikes of white, pink, mauve, purple or blue, from late spring to autumn depending on type
- Foliage Evergreen, from tiny scale-like whipcord leaves to long glossy blades, some silver, gold, purple or variegated
- Position Full sun or light shade, very good in exposed coastal gardens
- Soil Any well-drained soil, including chalk and sand, but not waterlogged clay
- Good for Seaside gardens, low hedges, rock gardens, containers, pollinators
Small-leaved or large-leaved, the key choice
A simple rule of thumb serves well. The smaller and tougher the leaf, the hardier the hebe tends to be. Small-leaved kinds such as Hebe pinguifolia 'Pagei', with its blue-grey leaves, and Hebe rakaiensis, a neat bright green dome, shrug off most UK winters.
Large-leaved hybrids, often with showy purple, pink or magenta flowers, are generally more tender and more likely to suffer in a hard frost. Classic examples include 'Great Orme' and the many compact patio varieties sold in flower. Popular in-between plants such as 'Midsummer Beauty' have narrower leaves and sit at a middle level of hardiness.
- Whipcord hebes have tiny scale leaves pressed to the stems and look like dwarf conifers.
- Small-leaved domes and mats suit rockeries, edging and low hedges.
- Large-leaved hybrids give the biggest flowers but need a sheltered, sunny spot.
- Variegated and coloured-leaf forms are grown mainly for winter foliage.
Matching hebes to your winter
RHS ratings for hebes range from H3, which means damage is likely below about -5°C, to H5, hardy to around -15°C. Check the label before you buy, especially if you garden inland, on high ground or in a frost pocket.
In colder parts of Lincolnshire and the Midlands, stick mostly to small-leaved types in open ground and keep the tender large-leaved hybrids for pots you can move against the house. Wet is as dangerous as cold, so a hardy hebe on soggy clay can still fail.
Why hebes love the coast
New Zealand hebes evolved in windy, salty places, and they are among the best shrubs for seaside gardens. Their thick, waxy leaves resist salt spray, and the mild coastal climate suits even the more tender hybrids.
Use taller kinds as a living windbreak to shelter more delicate plants behind them, and plant dwarf types in gravel beds or between rocks near the shore. On the coast, many large-leaved hebes that struggle inland flower for months with little help.
Planting a hebe well
Plant in spring so roots establish before winter. Choose a sunny, open site with free-draining soil, and work in grit on heavy ground. Set the plant at the same depth it sat in its pot, firm gently and water in thoroughly.
Dwarf types make neat edging planted 30 to 40cm apart, while larger shrubs need 75cm to 1m between them. Small-leaved hebes do well in troughs and rock gardens beside the plants in our alpines collection, as both like sharp drainage.
Water, food and trimming
Water new plants regularly in their first summer, then only in long droughts. Hebes need little or no fertiliser. A spring mulch of compost is enough, and rich feeding makes them soft and short-lived.
Trim after flowering or in mid spring once frosts are over, taking off faded flower spikes and shortening untidy shoots. Most hebes do not regrow reliably from thick old wood, so trim lightly every year rather than hacking back an overgrown plant.
Making more plants from cuttings
Hebes are among the easiest shrubs to propagate. Take semi-ripe cuttings 5 to 10cm long from non-flowering shoots between July and September, remove the lower leaves and insert them around the edge of a pot of gritty compost.
A cold frame or cool greenhouse gives them a sheltered start. This is also good insurance for tender large-leaved varieties, since a few rooted cuttings kept frost-free will replace any losses after a harsh winter.
Troubleshooting common problems
Most hebe troubles come back to drainage, frost or age. The signs are usually easy to read.
- Brown, scorched leaves in spring usually mean frost or cold wind damage, so wait for new growth before pruning.
- Sudden collapse of a whole plant often points to root rot in wet soil.
- Grey or purple blotches on leaves can be leaf spot or downy mildew, worst in damp, still air.
- Bare, woody centres show an old plant that is best replaced with a young cutting.
Using hebes in garden design
Low hebes are excellent evergreen structure at the front of a sunny border and stay neat without clipping. Plant them with lavender, rosemary, sedums and ornamental grasses for a dry garden that looks good all year.
Taller flowering hebes fill the gap between summer perennials and autumn, feeding bees late in the season. Hebes are not known to be toxic, so they are a sensible choice for family gardens with pets.
Questions about Hebe (shrubby veronica)
Which hebes are the hardiest?
The small-leaved and whipcord types are the toughest. Hebe pinguifolia 'Pagei' is rated RHS H5, hardy to around -15°C, and Hebe rakaiensis is also known for coping well with cold. Large-leaved, big-flowered hybrids are usually the first to suffer.
Can you cut a hebe back hard?
It is risky. Some vigorous young hebes reshoot from older stems, but many do not, especially once the wood is thick and bare. If you must try, cut back in late spring and only take out a third of the stems in one year.
How long do hebes live?
Many hebes look their best for around 8 to 10 years before they become woody and open. Dwarf types often last longer. Because cuttings root so easily, it is simple to raise replacements before an old plant declines.
Are hebes good in pots?
Compact hebes make excellent container plants for patios and balconies. Use a loam-based compost with added grit, water in dry spells, and move pots of tender varieties into shelter during hard frosts.
Once you have worked out if your garden calls for a tough little bun or a big flowering bush, hebes are some of the easiest evergreens you can grow. Take a look through our shrubs collection to find hebes and other hardy shrubs that suit dry, windy gardens.